Key production numbers
French terryUn-napped loop or float structure on the technical back; versatile for layering.
FleeceInterior floats are brushed or napped for a softer, warmer surface.
Typical directionApproximately 280–360 GSM for versatile terry; 320–500 GSM for substantial fleece programs.
Approval ruleSpecify composition, GSM, inside finish, shrinkage and colour—then approve the actual fabric.
The structural difference
Cotton Incorporated explains that industry “French terry” is commonly an un-napped two-end fleece construction with float loops on the technical back. Brushing or napping those interior floats is what creates the fleecy surface in a typical fleece fabric.
That inside finish changes touch, warmth and appearance even if two fabrics have similar composition and GSM. Buyers should describe the back treatment instead of using “terry” and “fleece” interchangeably.
How each fabric wears
French terry leaves the interior structure visible and generally feels less insulating, making it useful for all-season sweatshirts, sweatpants and layering. Brushed fleece traps more air at the surface and usually feels warmer and softer against the body.
The final result also depends on fibre blend, yarn, density and finish. Polyester can support recovery and quicker drying; cotton often supports a familiar natural hand. Blends should be chosen for the desired performance and labeled accurately.
GSM and silhouette
A midweight French terry can drape naturally in relaxed sweatpants, while heavier fleece can support a structured streetwear hoodie. Higher GSM increases mass but does not automatically guarantee durability or softness.
Pattern, rib and hood construction must match the fabric. Thick fleece can add seam bulk, change hood fall and require stronger rib recovery. Approve the garment, not just the swatch.
Shrinkage, pilling and testing
Cotton-rich knits may shrink if knitting, finishing and care are not controlled. Brushed surfaces also need review for pilling and fibre shedding. Agree on appropriate wash, dimensional-change and appearance testing before bulk.
AATCC’s current manual includes methods for dimensional change after home laundering and other textile performance checks. The correct protocol, number of cycles and tolerance should be stated in the product specification.
Printing and embroidery
Smooth technical faces can work with screen printing, DTG or embroidery, but fabric colour, stretch, thickness and finish affect the process. Heavy or unstable fleece may need adjusted pretreatment, curing, backing or hooping.
Approve decoration on the real fabric. A print strike-off on a different jersey does not prove opacity, hand feel or wash performance on a fleece hoodie.
Decision framework
Choose French terry when the product needs layering versatility, visible loop character or a less insulated feel. Choose fleece when warmth, soft interior touch and a substantial cold-season impression matter more.
Then lock composition, GSM range, face appearance, back finish, stretch, shrinkage tolerance, colour and approved reference. These measurable points make repeat orders more reliable.
French terry and fleece comparison
| Factor | French terry | Brushed fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Visible un-napped floats or loops | Brushed or napped surface |
| Warmth | Moderate and layer-friendly | Warmer and more insulating |
| Common use | Sweatpants, sweatshirts, trans-seasonal hoodies | Cold-season hoodies and sweatshirts |
| Hand feel | Textured interior | Soft, fuzzy interior |
| Risk to review | Loop snagging and shrinkage | Pilling, shedding and shrinkage |
| Specification | Composition, GSM and loop structure | Composition, GSM and brushing level |
Frequently asked questions
Is French terry always cotton?
No. It can use cotton, synthetic fibres or blends; confirm the stated composition.
Is fleece always heavier?
No. GSM and construction vary, although fleece is often selected for a heavier, warmer product.
Which is better for summer?
A lighter French terry is commonly more versatile for warm or transitional conditions.
Which prints better?
Both can work when the face, colour, pretreatment, ink and curing are compatible.
Does higher GSM mean less pilling?
No. Pilling also depends on fibre, yarn, knitting, brushing, finishing and use.
Should I wash-test the sample?
Yes. Review shrinkage, appearance, colour and decoration on the actual garment.
Sources and verification
Official and industry-primary references used to verify standards, regulations and definitions in this guide.
CottonWorks single and double knits ↗AATCC textile test methods ↗